Telebee Gyro How-to
|Connect the rudder servo to top connector.
Make sure the plugs go in the right way. Click on the
picture to the left to see what color wire should be on
what side. Run one of the extension cables that came with
the gyro from the middle connector to the rudder channel
on the receiver. Next run the other extension cable from
the bottom connector to a spare channel on the receiver.
This should be the gear channel on the receiver. Note:
If you have a JR or Airtronics Z plugs on the receiver
then you will have to trim two of the edges on the
extension cable so they will fit into the receiver.
NOTE: The connector on the gyro sensor box is used for factory programming only. Do not connect anything to it.
|Mount the Gyro on the back plate behind the main shaft. Do NOT pay attention to the instructions for gyro orientation. As long as you have the orange sticker on top then you have it mounted in the right orientation. I mounted mine with the arrows pointing left/right and the cord coming out of the sensor box toward the back of the helicopter (click on photo at the left). The gyro comes with two pieces of foam tape that work really good. I put one strip on the bottom left edge and the other on the bottom right edge. If you need to replace the tape, you can use the CSM tape part # CMLG150|
|Before we continue it helps to understand the characteristics of this gyro. You will notice that your rudder stick only moves the servo for the first 75% to the right and the first 25% to the left. The servo does not move when the stick is past these positions. Also the gain pot on the gyro sensor box does not work when you use the remote gain. It does not matter what position the pot is set to. The radio controlled gain takes priority. Another thing to remember is that all heading hold gyros have to initailize. This one takes about 9 seconds. Don't move the helicopter during the first 9 seconds after you turn it on. The gyro will let you know it's finished by moving the servo just a little bit one way then back. It will also turn on a red LED on the back of the gyro sensor box.|
|Common misconception of all heading hold gyros||Another thing that a lot of people don't understand is that the rudder travel adjust (ATV's / EPA's) does not adjust how far the servo moves. You cannot use this to prevent linkage binding. This adjustment only effects how fast the tail moves (your pirouette rate).|
|radio setup||Disconnect the rudder link from the servo. Turn on the radio and receiver. Wait 9 seconds for the gyro to initialize. It will move the rudder servo a little to let you know it's ready. Also you will notice a red LED light up in the back of the gyro sensor box.|
|zero center position||In the radio, set the servo centering to zero (CNT=rd6000, SubTrim=JR radios). Make sure the trims are centered.|
|set limits to 100%||Set the rudder end limits (EPA=rd6000, ATV=JR radios) to 100% both directions|
|dual rates to 100%||Set the Dual rates to 100%|
|set aux ch.||Set the channel you are using for remote gain.
The concept is to use the end points to not only choose
between HH or Normal, but also to adjust the gain in each
mode. For example if your end point range is from -100 to
+100 then a value of 60 would put the gyro in normal mode
with 60% gain. If you set the other side to -60 then it
would make the gyro operate in heading hold at 60% gain.
If your end point range is from 0% to 100% then a value
of 80 would be 60% gain in normal mode and 20 would be 60%
gain in HH.
If you use the Airtronics RD6000 then go to 'G' on the menu and down to 'GYR'. Use the flight mode button to select 'N' and set it to +60, then select '1' and set to -60, then '2' and set to +60.
|set to normal mode||Move the rudder stick to the right, then back to center, if the servo does the same then you are in normal mode. If the servo moves to one direction but does not move back to center then you are in heading hold mode. If your switches are in the right place for normal mode, but the gyro is in heading hold then you can go to the channel reversing menu and change the direction of the channel you use for gyro gain.|
|servo direction||Check the servo direction. Move the rudder stick to the right and watch the servo arm. It should move the servo clockwise which thereby should pull the rudder control link forward. This will make the nose of the helicopter rotate to the right. If not, then go to the channel reverse menu on your radio and change the direction.|
|gyro direction||Rotate the helicopter so the nose goes to the left and watch the rudder servo. The servo needs to rotate clockwise. If not, then flip the reverse switch located on the back of the gyro sensor box.|
|With the rudder link disconnected from the servo. The first thing to do is make the link slide as free as possible. Adjust the guides to acheive the least resistance. I added a slight bent to the front section of the rod as you can see if you click on the photo to the left. I did this so as to stop the resistance the rod had on the first frame guide due to being pulled down to the servo. I also used a JR Ball link resizing tool to remove unecessary resistance from the ball links. Once you get the link as free from resistance as you can, turn on the radio and receiver. Wait 9 seconds for the gyro to initialize. It will move the rudder servo a little to let you know it's ready. Set the rudder servo arm so that it points a few degrees clockwise of straight up (pointed toward the front of the heli) with the rudder stick and rudder trim centered. The best position for tail centering is to adjust the rudder link so that you have 4.5mm between the pitch slider and the tail rotor casing with the collective stick centered up/down and left/right. Check that the front link is centered with the servo arm. If it's not, turn the link clockwise to move it toward the back or counter clockwise to move it forward. Once the center of the ball link matches with the center of the arm and you have the 4.5mm at the tail slider, then you can move to the next step.|
|Hold the tail rotor stick full right and pull the control rod all the way forward. Note: The servo will only move during the first 75% of stick movement. This does not mean something is wrong, this is the way it was designed. Hold the link over the servo arm to see which hole it will align with and install the ball in that hole. Mine worked out to use the hole that is 9mm from the center. You want to use the one that is furthest from center that does not allow the servo to mechanically bind. After you mount the ball, confirm that it does not try to pull the link further than it can mechanically go either right or left. Now you can snap the link on the ball.|
|Notes about the Airtronics
RD6000 radio setup
|I have mine setup to go to HH when I flip the flight mode switch.I prefer this because I like non-HH for my ground maneuvers. To do that, I went to the 'G' Gyro menu and scrolled down to GYR. Use the flight mode button to choose 'N' and set it to a positive value like 60 to start with (my gain is great at 100%). Press the flight button to select '1' then set it to a negative number like -60%. The negative about will cause the gyro to go to HH mode when you switch to flight mode 1. I run non-HH in throttle hold, if you want to do the same then use the flight mode button to choose '2' then set to the same positive value you have for 'N'. Note: I have gyro reverse mode set to 'NOR', if you have yours reversed then + values will be HH mode and - values will be non-HH.|
|If you don't have the radio setup so that it
has independent trims for normal and heading hold modes,
then you have to trim out the HH first, then mechanically
adjust the rudder link to make the normal rate hold still.
The reason for this is that HH requires a the radio to
constantly send a 'center position' signal to it.
Anything off of center will tell the HH mode to move. So
if in normal rate mode you move the trim (sub-trim or
trim knob) to the right to stop any drift, then when you
switch to HH, the heli will rotate to the right. So set
the trim to make HH still, then adjust the rudder link on
the helicopter so that normal mode does not drift.
|When switching from normal to flight mode 1
on my Airtronics RD6000, this is switching the gyro from
standard rate to heading hold. While on the bench you
need to set the HH center. If as soon as the gyro enters
HH mode, then the tail servo immediately starts drifting
until it reaches the limit on one side or the other, this
means the trim needs to be adjusted. If the servo moves
slowly, it will only need a few clicks. If you have your
rd6000 set just like mine, then the rudder trims are
saved separately for each flight mode. So flip from
normal to flight mode 1 and watch the rudder servo. If it
moves, then while in flight mode 1, use the trim to stop
it. Flip back to normal, then to HH, you want to get it
set so that when you switch, the tail servo does not move.
Note: This will get you close, if not perfect, for actual
flying, but you should be aware that my experience has
been that due to vibration or whatever in flight, that
the center position is different. So when you flip the
switch, the tail might drift. Just adjust the trim to
stop the drift. Afterwards, you will see that on the
bench, the tail will drift when going from normal to HH,
but that's okay, since it will be right while flying.
The first time you hover you can set the trim for the normal rate mode. Just use the rudder trim since you don't have to be concerned about it interacting with the HH mode.
|How to: configure a switch
on the RD6000 to toggle HH
and normal gyro rate.
|First go to the gyro menu 'G' and down to
'GYR'. Use the flight mode button to select 'N' and set
it to +60, then select '1' and set to +60, then '2' and
set to +60. Next go to 'etc' on the menu and down to 'MAS
1' and set to 'gy'. Go down to 'SLV 1' and set to 'gy'.
Go down to 'g->g 1' to -150. This will let you use the
cmix 1 switch on the top/front/left of the radio to
toggle between heading hold and normal.
Adjustment Example: Lets say we notice the gain in normal mode is too high. Go to 'G' and down to 'GYR'. Use the flight mode button to select 'N' and decrease the value. Next, because of this type of configuration, we have to make all other flight modes the same. So use the flight mode button to select '1' and set to the same value you had in 'N' mode. Do the same for mode '2'.
Adjustment Example: Lets say the gain is too high in heading hold. Go to 'etc' and down to 'g->g 1' and 'increase' the value. If you have the value at '-150' then try a higher value like '-130'.
Disadvantages to this configuration:
1. It uses up one of the mixes. I use both mixes for my cyclic to throttle for 3D flight.
2. Everytime you adjust the normal rate gain in the gyro menu 'gyr', this will also slightly effect the HH gain.
3. Everytime you adjust the normal rate gain, you have to set that same value in the other two flight modes.
4. You have to use the 'etc' menu to get to the mix 1 to set the heading hold gain.
|Gain values for Normal and HH are low.||1. The helicopter is out of balance.
Vibration is the cause of low gain settings. Check the
blades, check for bent main shaft, spindle shaft, tail
shaft, out of balance tail blades, etc.
2. I found that a sticky clutch caused me to have to turn down my gain by 20%. Check the engine/start shaft alignment and look for a broke shoe.
3. The electronic boards inside the sensor box could be vibrating. Use small rubber foam pieces inside to cushion the circuit boards.
4. The ball on the rudder servo is too far away from the center.
|HH doesn't hold good||1. The RPM's should be 1850 to 1950 for 3D flight. It's also important that your engine is running good. If your engine loads up a lot then you won't be able to keep a consistent RPM. Remember that a few hundred rpm drop on the head is several hundred rpm drop on the tail.|