|Connect the rudder servo to top connector.
Make sure the plugs go in the right way. Click on the
picture to the left to see what color wire should be on
what side. Run one of the extension cables that came with
the gyro from the middle connector marked 'To receiver 1-4'
to the rudder channel on the receiver (ch.4). Next run
the other extension cable from the bottom connector
marked 'To receiver aux' to ch.5 on the receiver.
NOTE: If you have the old style case, then the connector on the gyro sensor box is used for factory programming only. Do not connect anything to it.
|Mount the Gyro on the back plate behind the main shaft. Do NOT pay attention to the instructions for gyro orientation. As long as you have the orange sticker on top then you have it mounted in the right orientation. I mounted mine with the arrows pointing left/right and the cord coming out of the sensor box toward the back of the helicopter (click on photo at the left). The gyro comes with two pieces of foam tape that work really good. I put one strip on the bottom left edge and the other on the bottom right edge. If you need to replace the tape, you can use the CSM tape part # CMLG150|
|Before we continue it helps to understand the characteristics of this gyro. You will notice that your rudder stick only moves the servo for the first 75% to the right and the first 25% to the left. The servo does not move when the stick is past these positions. Also the gain pot on the gyro sensor box does not work when you use the remote gain. It does not matter what position the pot is set to. The radio controlled gain takes priority. Another thing to remember is that all heading hold gyros have to initailize. This one takes about 9 seconds. Don't move the helicopter during the first 9 seconds after you turn it on. The gyro will let you know it's finished by moving the servo just a little bit one way then back. It will also turn on a red LED on the back of the gyro sensor box.|
|Common misconception of all heading hold gyros||Another thing that a lot of people don't understand is that the rudder travel adjust (ATV's / EPA's) does not adjust how far the servo moves. You cannot use this to prevent linkage binding. This adjustment only effects how fast the tail moves (your pirouette rate).|
|radio setup||Disconnect the rudder link from the servo. Turn on the radio and receiver. Wait 9 seconds for the gyro to initialize. It will move the rudder servo a little to let you know it's ready. Also you will notice a red LED light up in the back of the gyro sensor box.|
|zero out anything that would effect the rudder||First get in the menu (press mode and channel buttons simultaneously), press 'mode' until the screen gets to 'mix RVU', use the '+' or '-' buttons to set the value to zero, press 'channel' to change the display to 'mix RVD' and also set the value to zero. Another thing to make sure is turned off is the Stunt Trim. Go to 'STT' and set it to 'OF'. And zero out the Sub-trim, go to 'sb-trim THR' and use the 'channel' button to select 'RUD' then the '+/-' to set the value to zero.|
|set pirouette speed||Go to 'TRV ADJ.' menu and use the 'channel' button to select 'RUD'. Hold the rudder stick to the left and set the value to 70%, hold the rudder stick to the right and set it to 70%. This will set how fast the helicopter rotates. You may want it faster or slower so change the value appropiately.|
|set gyro switch||Next select how you want to switch the gyro from heading hold to standard mode. For the Telebee I found I had to operate in standard mode when doing ground maneuvers to get a smooth action. So I set mine up so when in normal flight mode the gyro would operate in standard rate. Then when I went to flight mode 1 (Stunt mode), the gyro would go to heading hold which was better for the 3D tricks. To set it up this way, get in the menu then go to 'GER' and use the 'increase' button to select 'F'.|
|set the gyro gain||Go to 'TRV ADJ.' menu and use the 'channel' button to select 'GER' and make sure both sides are also set to 100%. To select both sides flip the flight mode switch from Normal to Stunt. One direction will set the gain value for heading hold and the other will be for standard rate. That is the difference between one value having a positive value and the other a negative value. For now set both to 100 but later you may need to adjust this down a little to keep the gyro from 'hunting'.|
|set to normal mode||While in Normal flight mode, move the rudder stick to the right, then back to center, if the servo does the same then you are in normal mode. If the servo moves to one direction but does not move back to center then you are in heading hold mode. If it is not in standard rate when in normal flight mode, then reverse the values in the servo reversing menu 'rev-norm' and use the 'channel' button to select 'GER'. Then use the 'increase' button to change the value.|
|servo direction||Check the servo direction. Move the rudder stick to the right and watch the servo arm. It should move the servo clockwise which thereby should pull the rudder control link forward. This will make the nose of the helicopter rotate to the right (if you assembled the hub the right way). If not, then go to the rudder channel in the 'rev-norm' menu on your radio and change the direction.|
|gyro direction||Rotate the helicopter so the nose goes to the left and watch the rudder servo. The servo needs to rotate clockwise. If not, then flip the reverse switch located on the back of the gyro sensor box.|
|With the rudder link disconnected from the servo. The first thing to do is make the link slide as free as possible. Adjust the guides to acheive the least resistance. I added a slight bent to the front section of the rod as you can see if you click on the photo to the left. I did this so as to stop the resistance the rod had on the first frame guide due to being pulled down to the servo. I also used a JR Ball link resizing tool to remove unecessary resistance from the ball links. Once you get the link as free from resistance as you can, turn on the radio and receiver. Wait 9 seconds for the gyro to initialize. It will move the rudder servo a little to let you know it's ready. Set the rudder servo arm so that it points a few degrees clockwise of straight up (pointed toward the front of the heli) with the rudder stick and rudder trim centered. The best position for tail centering is to adjust the rudder link so that you have 4.5mm between the pitch slider and the tail rotor casing with the collective stick centered up/down and left/right. Check that the front link is centered with the servo arm. If it's not, turn the link clockwise to move it toward the back or counter clockwise to move it forward. Once the center of the ball link matches with the center of the arm and you have the 4.5mm at the tail slider, then you can move to the next step.|
|Hold the tail rotor stick full right and pull the control rod all the way forward. Note: The servo will only move during the first 75% of stick movement. This does not mean something is wrong, this is the way it was designed. Hold the link over the servo arm to see which hole it will align with and install the ball in that hole. Mine worked out to use the hole that is 9mm from the center. You want to use the one that is furthest from center that does not allow the servo to mechanically bind. After you mount the ball, confirm that it does not try to pull the link further than it can mechanically go either right or left. Now you can snap the link on the ball.|
|Flight adjustments||The biggest thing that gets a lot of people
confused with heading hold gyros is how to center them.
To put it simply, you center Heading hold with the radio
and standard rate with the rudder linkage. First center
the rudder trim. Next flip into flight mode 1 (Stunt mode)*
to get the gyro in heading hold. If the tail drifts to
the left or right then use rudder sub trim to correct
->*If you are learning to hover and not ready to fly with a more advanced pitch/throttle in Stunt mode, then set the pitch/throttle curve identical to that of normal flight mode.
After you get the tail centered for heading hold then switch back to normal flight mode. In a hover if the tail drifts one way or the other then turn the take off the ball link from the rudder servo and turn it clockwise if the nose of the helicopter drifts to the left and counter-clockwise if the helicopter drifts to the right.
|Gain values for Normal and HH are low.||1. The helicopter is out of balance.
Vibration is the cause of low gain settings. Check the
blades, check for bent main shaft, spindle shaft, tail
shaft, out of balance tail blades, etc.
2. I found that a sticky clutch caused me to have to turn down my gain by 20%. Check the engine/start shaft alignment and look for a broke shoe.
3. The electronic boards inside the sensor box could be vibrating. Use small rubber foam pieces inside to cushion the circuit boards.
4. The ball on the rudder servo arm is too far out.
|HH doesn't hold good||1. The RPM's should be 1850 to 1950 for 3D flight. It's also important that your engine is running good. If your engine loads up a lot then you won't be able to keep a consistent RPM.|