Elevator, Pitch, & Roll levers <<<under construction 9-13-2009>>>

In the paper manual pg5 'frame assembly 2' they have you mount a receiver battery plate... but I use the BEC in the ESC. So I just left the plate off. BEC stands for Battery Elimination Circuit. It is a regulator that drops the higher voltage of your battery down to 5 volts to power the receiver, servos, and gyro. And the ESC stands for Electronic Speed Controller. It sends the power to the motor using timing to control the speed the motor turns.


Start with the elevator lever (#204513). Mine was already assembled but I had to take it apart to adjust it. The base of the A-arm was dragging against the elevator lever. If left as-is it would eventually wear and become free but before then it would effect the flying. You mostly would notice this in a hover with a 'sticky control' effect. A hover requires precise small movements. When your contols are tight then the effect is that you move the stick a tiny amount to level the heli but it does not react so you add more until it does. However then it moves more then you wanted so you end up with a heli that just does not want to sit still in a hover. With smooth controls and pilot skills the heli should be able to stay in one place for a few seconds without any corrections.

To take this assembly apart I used the tip of my allen wrench to push the pin out. Once out I then used a file on the A-arm as you can see in the second picture. You want the A-arm to go onto the lever with little resistance. None would be ideal but do not over do it and end up with free play. The A-arm also has the function of anti-rotation for the swashplate. A little resistance is fine, it will not strain the servos nor cause the 'sticky' effect and it will wear to a perfect fit eventually. The other thing you want to check on while this is apart is the fit of the pin in the A-arm. The pin is press fit into the elevator lever but needs to be able to pivot in the A-arm. Take the pin and see if you can run it through the pin holes of the A-arm with little to no resistance. If it is tight then you need to use a drill bit to open up the hole a little more. I use a drill bit that is smaller then the hole and let the sides of the drill bit open up the hole a little at a time. You want it just large enough for the pin the easily go through. When you go to put the A-Arm back on it has a direction that it needs to go back. The ball link is designed to go one direction. The way you figure out that direction is to put the link against a ball and note how much of the ball pokes out the other side. Turn the A-arm around and test fit it again. The orientation that lets the ball stick out further is the correct direction. So when you install it back on the elevator lever set the A-arm to go the correct direction on the swashplate.

 

Next you need to build the levers in the picture below. The bearings were already installed in my kit so all I had to do was install the balls.

Next install the elevator arm on the elevator lever. In the pictures below you will see that with the elevator arm in a straight up orientation, the elevator lever inside the frames should be in a horizontal position. The arm and lever will not go together in any position due to the teeth on the arm. So if you have it rotated too far you will easily see that is the wrong position. Next install the screw m2x12 in the arm. And use the M2x7 screw with the sleeve on the other side. NOTE:If you get the elevator arm too tight then it will not pivot free.


Also install the other two levers you built. They are attached using M3x10 bolts.
collective leveraileron lever

Next the manual has you build the front main gear. The one in my kit was already built.
front main gear
shaft, one way gear, and spacer tubeinstalling shaft, gears, and spacer