Elevator, Pitch, & Roll levers <<<under construction 9-13-2009>>>
In the paper manual pg5 'frame assembly 2' they have you mount a receiver battery plate... but I use the BEC in the ESC. So I just left the plate off. BEC stands for Battery Elimination Circuit. It is a regulator that drops the higher voltage of your battery down to 5 volts to power the receiver, servos, and gyro. And the ESC stands for Electronic Speed Controller. It sends the power to the motor using timing to control the speed the motor turns.
Start with the elevator lever (#204513). Mine was already
assembled but I had to take it apart to adjust it. The base of
the A-arm was dragging against the elevator lever. If left as-is
it would eventually wear and become free but before then it would
effect the flying. You mostly would notice this in a hover with a
'sticky control' effect. A hover requires precise small movements.
When your contols are tight then the effect is that you move the
stick a tiny amount to level the heli but it does not react so
you add more until it does. However then it moves more then you
wanted so you end up with a heli that just does not want to sit
still in a hover. With smooth controls and pilot skills the heli
should be able to stay in one place for a few seconds without any
corrections.
To take this assembly apart I used the tip of my
allen wrench to push the pin out. Once out I then used a file on
the A-arm as you can see in the second picture. You want the A-arm
to go onto the lever with little resistance. None would be ideal
but do not over do it and end up with free play. The A-arm also
has the function of anti-rotation for the swashplate. A little
resistance is fine, it will not strain the servos nor cause the 'sticky'
effect and it will wear to a perfect fit eventually. The other
thing you want to check on while this is apart is the fit of the
pin in the A-arm. The pin is press fit into the elevator lever
but needs to be able to pivot in the A-arm. Take the pin and see
if you can run it through the pin holes of the A-arm with little
to no resistance. If it is tight then you need to use a drill bit
to open up the hole a little more. I use a drill bit that is
smaller then the hole and let the sides of the drill bit open up
the hole a little at a time. You want it just large enough for
the pin the easily go through. When you go to put the A-Arm back
on it has a direction that it needs to go back. The ball link is
designed to go one direction. The way you figure out that
direction is to put the link against a ball and note how much of
the ball pokes out the other side. Turn the A-arm around and test
fit it again. The orientation that lets the ball stick out
further is the correct direction. So when you install it back on
the elevator lever set the A-arm to go the correct direction on
the swashplate.
Next you need to build the levers in the picture below. The bearings were already installed in my kit so all I had to do was install the balls.
Next install the elevator arm on the elevator lever. In the pictures
below you will see that with the elevator arm in a straight up
orientation, the elevator lever inside the frames should be in a
horizontal position. The arm and lever will not go together in any
position due to the teeth on the arm. So if you have it rotated too far
you will easily see that is the wrong position. Next install the screw
m2x12 in the arm. And use the M2x7 screw with the sleeve on the other
side. NOTE:If you get the elevator arm too tight then it will not pivot
free.
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